São Tomé and Príncipe travel guide

Our São Tomé and Príncipe travel guide to this stunning dual island nation, 250km off the west coast of Central Africa, aims to open up a few of the secrets of this emerging destination. Because in many ways we don’t want it to emerge fully. It is so beautiful in its nascence it would be wonderful to preserve much of it just as it is. Responsible tourism operators endeavour to do just that.

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São Tomé and Príncipe travel guide

Once known as the Chocolate Islands, because cocoa was the main product of its colonial years under Portuguese rule, this stunning, tropical, dual island nation now has its eye on a much less tangible resource: the creative power of its youth. Because over 70 percent of the population of São Tomé & Príncipe, just 250km off the coast of Central Africa, is under 20 years old. This is the generation that has a chance to finally remove the shackle marks left by its colonists, where bonded labour was too long the norm.

In São Tomé & Príncipe, we don't need to be too rich. The greatest richness should be focussed on our way of being: welcoming, living and sharing.

– João Carlos Silva, São Tomé plantation owner and cultural visionary

Only gaining independence from Portugal in 1975, many of the younger generation now recognise that the future is about preservation, not exploitation. Preservation of the rainforests, volcanic terrain, endemic wildlife, Sãotomean culture and coastal paradise. The fermentation of cocoa beans is an important part of the chocolate making process. And in many ways, as our São Tomé and Príncipe travel guide shows, responsible tourism is still in its fermentation stage here. Managed carefully and slowly, the end result will not only be democratic but also totally delectable.

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São Tomé and Príncipe is...

a two island nation, although most tourism is on São Tomé. It doubles up on everything though. Beauty, friendliness and rainforest: nothing is done by halves.

São Tomé and Príncipe isn't...

a resort destination. It has hung on to its own identity, architecture and style, thankfully.

Things to do in São Tomé & Príncipe …

São Tomé and Príncipe is a pretty much unknown utopia for keen walkers. Particularly São Tomé, where the infrastructure is developed just enough to discover trails within Obo National Park, which covers a third of the island. You can find some superb local guides here to lead you through its volcanic voluptuousness and virgin rainforest terrain. There are also two dry seasons, so you can avoid the heavy rains, but most trips don’t run during the wet season anyway. Stay in a plantation house, known locally as roças. The roças are heaving with history, and not always a positive one, as Portuguese colonists used slaves and bonded labour for years to exploit cocoa and coffee resources, even after other countries had abolished slavery. Many of the main houses were abandoned after independence in 1975, and slowly but surely they are being restored, many in a sustainable way. These are wonderful places to stay, be it on the coast, in the mountains or enveloped by farmland. Learn about the local culture and history. There is a wonderful fusion of Portuguese and Central African influences on the islands. The Angolar Creole villages of São Tomé’s south coast are a hive of music and dance, and the capital São Tomé city has a new wave of artists, local gastronomy, traditional dance and music. And chocolate lovers, be prepared for ‘death by’.

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Things not to do in São Tomé and Príncipe …

Go hiking without a guide – unless you are very experienced. The walking trails are not very developed so you really do need inside information. Anyway, you will delight at having a local guide to point out many of the endemic bird species, or help you climb Pico de São Tomé, find a secret waterfall or a remote beach.

Expect to speak English. The official language is Portuguese, so it is definitely worth learning a few phrases before you head off. Forro is a Creole language spoken by about half the population. Also known as Sãotomense, it is a fusion of Portuguese, Bantu and Kwa. If you can learn a few words of this, you will make friends for life.

Ignore malaria warnings. It does exist here – although it is rare in populated areas – but do take all recommended precautions, especially during the rainy seasons.

Be shy. Sãotomeans are incredibly welcoming, open and warm hearted. Singing and dancing is at the heart of their culture, everyone shakes hands and hugs, and the population is very young, with over 70 percent under the age of 20. There is a lot of energy in the air, and they welcome guests with open arms. Sãotomeans enjoy good life, fine local produce, beer (although they aren’t renowned for being heavy drinkers), and crime is pretty much unheard of.