Sierra Leone travel guide

Sierra Leone’s tropical sands and lush interior have made far fewer headlines than the Ebola crisis or the decade-long civil war, but once upon a time this diminutive country was known as an off-the-radar holiday spot rather than a place of political and social upheaval. However, the country is open to visitors once again, and, for the moment at least, you can do so with few other tourists in sight.

Sierra Leone is a sublime coastline, thriving rainforest, streets full of music and chatter, and sunsets that set the skies ablaze.

What’s to see? Well, first off there are the beaches: a string of golden and powder white bays a short hop from the nation’s energetic capital, Freetown. Then there are the little-visited wildlife reserves, where you can track chimpanzees and bed down in rudimentary shelters, lulled to sleep by the sound of the rainforest. And all around you the country’s fascinating and sometimes brutal history is reflected in its ruined slave forts and colourful clapboard houses, built by freed enslaved people returning from the Americas.

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Sierra Leone is...

full of natural beauty, from palm fringed islands to thick rainforest.

Sierra Leone isn’t...

dangerous. The civil war ended over 15 years ago and the country was declared Ebola free in 2016.

Things to do in Sierra Leone…

Not many people know that Sierra Leone has some of the best beaches in Africa, and for now they are wild, open and refreshingly free from ugly developments. The beaches of the 42km-long Freetown Peninsula offer turquoise lagoons backed by pure white sands as well as sweeping golden bays with waves ripe for surfing. Off its tip, Banana Island is worthy of any castaway fantasy. In Freetown, meanwhile, there’s Lumley Beach, which may not win prizes for cleanliness but is great fun at weekends, when people come out to relax, play football and party. Unlike in many of Africa’s more popular destinations it’s perfectly possible to experience Sierra Leone’s wildlife sanctuaries and national parks without encountering another tourist, making you feel like a true adventurer. Time spent camping in Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, for example, listening to the sound of the rainforest with scarcely another soul around is a particularly special highlight. Do make an effort to learn about the country’s history and culture. At Bunce Island and Banana Island you’ll see reminders of the slave trade, and in central Freetown, the famous cotton tree is said to have provided shelter for freed enslaved people arriving from the Americas in 1787. Also in the capital, the National Museum details the traditions of the country’s many ethnic groups, including the Temnes and Mendes, as well as the history of colonialism. It’s worth reading up on the country’s brutal civil war (1991-2002), the effects of which are still visible today.

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Things not to do in Sierra Leone…

Sierra Leone is not a mainstream tourist destination. That’s what makes it so appealing, so you shouldn’t expect luxury on a trip here. While Freetown does have top end hotels, in the rest of the country accommodation tends to be simple, and road conditions and infrastructure can be poor. This is all part of the experience though; accommodation will be clean and comfortable with helpful local staff and will give you more valuable insight into local life than staying in an international chain hotel. Sierra Leone has a rich food culture – don’t shun the local dishes! The fish in particular is excellent, and beachside restaurants, simple shacks or even local fishermen can whip up a barbeque of lobster or offer up fresh oysters. Baked goods are delicious too and all around the country you’ll see people selling loaves of warm, fresh fula bread (similar to baguette). Other favourites include spicy groundnut soup and peppery stews made with pounded cassava leaves, all the better washed down with a Star beer, or poyo – local palm wine. Tourism is slowly growing in Sierra Leone, but it remains a tough and time consuming place to travel thanks to poor infrastructure and limited public transport. For this reason, unless you’re super intrepid, we don’t recommend travelling independently. If you join a small group tour, you’ll travel in a private vehicle and enjoy the services of tour leader and an expert local guide. This reduces the chances of anything going wrong, offers up insider tips, and provides you with your own interpreter.

Sierra Leone travel guide