Sudan travel guide

Now that Myanmar has reopened for tourism and Cuba's no longer shying away from capitalism, where does the intrepid traveller go to get their kicks? Sudan, that's where - a nation that's not likely to become mainstream any time soon - although it's not lacking in either natural or manmade attractions. Our Sudan travel guide explores this vast, forgotten nation - and discovers that the Sudanese smile is even warmer than its desert...

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Sudan travel guide

As of May 2023, travel is not recommended to Sudan. Armed conflict has broken out due to a rift in the country’s military leadership. With ceasefires not being observed and civilians being targeted, many countries are now taking steps to repatriate their citizens.

Sudan is one of those countries that you have to dig out your atlas to check exactly where it is, with vague memories from school that the Nile, Red Sea and Sahara cut through it. As well as civil war, that has been a feature here for almost 40 years, with names like Darfur still sending shivers down our spines. Although peace now prevails, with the exception of certain regions such as Darfur which is about 800km from the Sudanese sites visitors are vying for.

People wear hearts on their sleeves in Sudan. And welcomed us into their hearts and homes too. In fact, the omnipresent Sudanese smile will always be imprinted on my mind.

But Sudan is a place where you have to look beyond both the atlas and media archives. Instead look out into the vastness of its deserts, back into the history of its Nubian people and their ancient civilisations, at its nomadic tribes and now predominantly Arab population. Each proud stewards of the most extraordinary landscapes, from the black basalt, volcanic mounds that rise up out of the Bayuda Desert to the proliferation of pyramids, which segue in and out of the sands like magnificent mirages. All real and all terrifically untouched by tourism.

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Sudan is…

dichotomous. First, it is devoid of tourists, but yet it has more pyramids than Egypt. Second, it has had centuries of civil strife, and yet the people are forever smiling and welcoming.

Sudan isn’t…

for you if desert exploration, long journeys and wild camping aren’t your thing. Oh, and if you crave an ice cold beer. Not for you either. All alcohol is illegal.

Things to do in Sudan...

Pyramid perfection is what so many people come in search of in Sudan, for those who have woken up to the fact that it is not only Egyptians who built these necropolises for their royalty. In fact, there are more pyramids in one small section of the northern Sudanese desert than in the whole of Egypt. The Meroe Pyramids boast over 200 ancient wonders, about 200km north of Khartoum, on top of a dune draped hill, while the Nuri Pyramids are part of the ancient Nubian city of Napata. Both are UNESCO sites; both are magical. The wilderness wonders of the desert landscapes are what dominate and delight on all trips to Sudan. Where nomadic life is still the norm, and men on camels will stop to greet you like long lost cousins, ask if you want to buy a camel, or indeed a wife. The contrast of ancient archaeological ruins, pyramids appearing across the parched plains like mirages, and traditional dwellings of the Bisharin nomads in the Nubian Desert, proffers a landscape that is far from culturally arid. It is oozing out of every oasis. Camp out under the stars to immerse yourself in a world where astronomers and archaeologists can die happy. Or where all travellers can bask in the warmth, not of the desert itself, with its bleached out beauty, but of the people. Who like to shake hands in between each question that they ask you. Because each answer is valuable when you meet someone in the desert and so all precious exchanges must be shaken upon.

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Things not to do in Sudan…

Most visits are trouble free, however terrorism is sadly a reality of travelling in these times. Sudan has had fewer terrorism incidents than other African countries, thankfully, however there has been significant civil unrest. Consequently, many areas are out of bounds for tourists, such as the five Darfur states where violence is not uncommon between rebels and government forces. Travel near the Sudan-Libya border is also not advised. Always get up to date information at the Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) travel advisory department before travelling to Ethiopia and also ensure that your travel insurance covers your trip. Read more details on FCO and insurance here. Take photos wherever you like. And we don’t just mean respecting people’s privacy and ensuring to ask permission. Even in certain places, such as the bridge over the confluence of the Nile in Khartoum, where taking photos is banned. And people have been arrested (a pretty extreme measure to banning selfie sticks, has to be said). On a serious note, visitors are meant to have a permit for taking photographs and videos. Ask you tour operator for details. Compare the pyramids with Egypt. These ones are of a different time, they are Nubian and, most importantly, they are in Sudan. And the Sudanese are rightly proud of the them, and dislike being compared with Egypt, especially given the fact that that the two countries have a troubled history. This is the desert. So don’t forget to drink. The recommended amount is 5 litres per day, usually sourced from wells, but your tour operator will also make sure it is purified, just to be safe. Homosexuality is illegal in Sudan and has, in some cases, been punishable by death. But all other punishments are vile and, of course, major issues in terms of human rights. Sudan is an Islamic state and it observes the rules of Sharia law, so alcohol and drugs are illegal. Dress conservatively, including men who should wear long trousers, not shorts, And never show images of prophet Muhammad, or take the name in vain in any way. Remember the story about the English teacher who allowed a pupil to call a teddy bear by this name? Yep, that was Sudan.

Sudan travel guide