Togo travel guide

Togo is one of the countries you have to really think twice about when it comes to placing it on a map. And if you guess its capital city in a pub quiz, you will be scorned for super swot status. On the West African coast, but stretching up through ancient forest covered mountains, we are hoping that this Togo travel guide won’t make you think twice about going. It is a fascinating, vibrant country that is also totally eye opening.

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TOGO TRAVEL GUIDE

Often described as being sandwiched between Ghana and Benin, it is worth remembering that it is the sandwich filling that is usually the most flavoursome bit. And Togo, a country the same size as Croatia, with its vibrant culture, ethnic mix and biodiverse landscapes certainly makes the most delicious filling. One that could easily be consumed alone without the bits on the side but which, for now, still only tends to be served up as part of a West Africa package. Albeit a very pretty and plucky package. First add the warm Togolese welcome, followed by the 56km of Atlantic coastline. Then add extraordinary remote indigenous villages, voodoo traditions and national parks which are habitat for elephants and more, and you will be definitely be ready to tuck into Togo.

It feels as if most of Togo is still off the beaten track. With a lot of talk about voodoo and magic, it was in the quiet villages and mountain landscapes where I felt its real magic

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Togo is...

a cultural adventure. Less destination, more revelation.

Togo isn't …

just about the south coast. Head north for mountains, ancient culture, national parks and wildlife.

Things to do in Togo

Gain an understanding of voodoo. For many people coming to Togo, the capital city Lomé is usually the first stop. It is home to the world famous Akodessewa Voodoo market, also known as the fetish market which refers to the traditional definition of fetish, meaning an object that is worshipped for magical powers because it is inhabited by a spirit. So no whips and handcuffs, just piles of dead animal parts waiting to be crushed up and used as a spell, magic potion or in some complex ritual. Some trips will also take you to a full on Voodoo ceremony which isn’t just for tourists. Authentic chants and trances are still very much part of Togolese life. Meet indigenous cultures. For such a small country it is extraordinary to think that there are forty ethnic groups, the majority being the Ewe, who live mostly in the south. Their heritage can be learned about at the ancient town of Notsé, north of Lomé. In the north, the Kabye still inhabit traditional mountain mud hut villages which you can visit in and around Kara, and the very traditional Tamberma or Batammariba people’s lifestyles have been protected by UNESCO, in a collection of magnificent fortress like settlements in a region called Koutammakou.

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Things not to do in Togo...

This is not a country to go waving a rainbow flag, sadly, as homosexuality is illegal, and homosexual acts are punishable by up to three years in prison and fines of up to about US $1,000. As with other countries failing to recognise LGBT rights, international lobbying groups are always working to invite progress in this area. Don’t ignore Togolese chit chat. They always say hello and goodbye, (in French, so most of us can manage that), and they shake hands all the time. Leave any reserve at home and go with the Togo flow. Be very careful where you swim as currents can be very strong along the coast of Togo. Go where there are lifeguards, which tends to only be on private beaches. Driving alone at night is not advised, and it is best to use the services of a local driver. Never go to the beach at night in Lomé as it is the favourite hangout for drug dealers and gangs. And sorry to say it, but the beach has been known to be used as a toilet at night. So, footwear is recommended.

Togo travel guide