Iraq travel guide

Iraq lies well off the travel map for all but the most intrepid souls, and those that do make it here head for the mountains of Iraqi Kurdistan. Unlike the rest of the country, as our Iraq travel guide reveals, this northern region isn’t off limits to travellers and offers a chance to glance behind the headlines, meet friendly and welcoming people and discover historic citadels, bazaars, and monasteries.

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Iraq travel guide

If history, culture and landscape were the only factors at play, Iraq would be an enticing prospect for adventurous travellers. Not only are there mountains to climb and deserts to trek across, the country also holds a treasure trove of ancient sites. Formerly part of Mesopotamia, Iraq was home to the legendary kingdoms of Sumer, Assyria and Babylon, and once upon a time, the now battle-scarred city of Basra was dubbed the ‘Venice of the East’, thanks to its elegant architecture and intricate network of canals.

Iraqi Kurdistan is like a Middle Eastern Switzerland with the added bonus of ruins, storied bazaars and warmly spiced cuisine.

Sadly, Saddam Hussein’s long dictatorship, the subsequent conflict and infiltration by Islamic State mean that the only place that’s safe to visit is Iraqi Kurdistan – a semi-autonomous region that’s home to five million of the world’s estimated 30 million Kurds. Brimming with stories, it’s a place where haunting reminders of the darkest of human deeds contrast with a welcoming patchwork of waterfalls, mountain villages and vast canyons, all sprinkled with historic relics and beacons of religious pilgrimage. Find out more in our Iraq travel guide.

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Iraq is…

astonishingly rich in history and natural beauty.

Iraq isn’t…

totally off limits. Iraqi Kurdistan welcomes curious travellers with open arms.

Things to do in Iraq…

Iraq has made historical waves for millennia, so it’s a top place to get a glimpse into the ancient world. While sights including Sumerian monument the Ziggurat of Ur are off limits for the moment, Iraqi Kurdistan has plenty to get your inner historian going, including the tomb of the Old Testament prophet Nahum; the city of Erbil, one of humanity's oldest settlements; the ancient battle site of Gaugamela, where you can follow in the footsteps of Alexander the Great; and the village of Lalish, an important site for Yezidi pilgrims. Iraq is also blessed with stunning natural beauty, so you should definitely get out into the wild while you’re here. Iraqi Kurdistan bursts with rugged mountain beauty and Rawanduz is its premier calling card, thanks to a bounty of deep gorges, imposing peaks and picturesque traditional villages. You can also visit Bekhal Waterfalls and explore Bestoon Cave – a vast underground cavern adorned with stalactites and stalagmites, where ancient Neanderthal remains have been found. The Iraqis are a hospitable bunch. Most welcome the opportunity to talk about the country’s recent history and their hopes for the future, so don’t forget to take the time to learn about and understand the country’s history before you arrive. Your interactions with people will be much more meaningful if you understand a bit about their background, and likewise, your appreciation of museums, cities and historic sites will greatly improve too.

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Things not to do in Iraq…

While Iraqi Kurdistan is safer than the rest of the country, it’s still a tough place to travel thanks to poor infrastructure and a changeable security situation. For this reason, we don’t recommend travelling independently. On a small group tour you’ll travel in a private vehicle with an expert local guide, reducing the chances of anything going wrong and ensuring that if it does, help is at hand. What’s more, Kurdistan has little budget for tourism, which means most attractions don’t have explanatory blurbs, guides or interpreters. On organised tours, you’ll always have someone there to explain the significance and history of a site.

Most visitors head to Iraq to learn more about a much misunderstood and often maligned nation, so don’t miss out on meeting local people, while you’re here. Stop in villages or share tea at a traditional chaykhana (tea house) in the city and you’ll gain real insight into traditional Kurdish customs. Remember never to take photographs without permission – these are real people with real lives, not just another tourist attraction.

Don’t worry about the food. A real pleasure of travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan is the colourful, fresh and warmly spiced cuisine. Lamb features heavily, and local specialities include shawarma – grilled meat wrapped in flatbread, bamia, a lamb, okra and tomato stew, and magouf, a grilled, marinated fish dish. Vegetarians will find plentiful grilled vegetable and bean dishes, as well as nuts, sheep's cheeses and yoghurts. Kurds drink gallons of sweet, black tea, and you’re bound to be invited to share a cup or two with them along your journey.

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Iraq travel guide