Serbia travel guide

People tend to throw all of ‘The Balkans’ together into a box, sweeping over this European peninsula swiftly without stopping to savour all the fine ingredients. Serbia is one of those ingredients, but one that is often listed in very small print, in comparison with the heady flavours of neighbouring Croatia, Hungary or Bosnia and Herzegovina. However, it is slowly creeping higher up the list of go to places, as travellers realise that Serbia is not to be sniffed at. Most tourists are beckoned by Belgrade and then give a tertiary nod to the Danube, ignoring the Dinaric Alps, the Ottoman influences in Novi Sad or the rural architecture and traditional foods of areas like Mokra Gora.
Serbia was traditionally a place where people came to take healing waters, with over 30 thermal spas or ‘banja’. Indeed, the power of healing is tangible all over Serbia now.
Yes, Serbia’s history is turbulent, but tourism is tranquil. Get out onto it ancient mountain trails, take moments of sanctuary in a riverside monastery, or sip a local white wine with local salamis and cheese. Before people start to read the small print.

Serbia is...

totally off the tourist trail, except Belgrade which can get packed. The national parks, canyons and gorges are just sitting pretty.

Serbia isn’t…

just place to stop en route to Bucharest. It’s a place to head to the mountains, take a book, and rest.

Things to do in Serbia…

Take an overland trip that combines the cultural heritage not only of Serbia but also that of its neighbours Bosnia and Herzegovina, Hungary, Croatia and Kosovo. With time, as Serbia’s tourism infrastructure grows, cultural tours will undoubtedly spend more time in Serbia itself but, for now, historic highlights of Belgrade and Novi Sad are big players in any grand tour of the Balkan countries. Serbia is criss-crossed with rivers, but the main one that creates canyons and gorges, such as Derdap, with strategic spots for ancient forts such as gobsmacking Golubac and traditional swimming spots like Štrand at Novi Stad, is the Danube. Not always blue, but always proffering boat trips to take in all the wonders. Hiking in Serbia’s national parks and protected areas is a revelation. Not only because of natural wonders such as the Iron Gates Gorge or verdant valleys tucked in between Mt. Tara and Mt. Zlatibor in Mokra Gora Nature Park, but because there are virtually no tourists. Just traditional wooden cabins, village bars serving local wine or Rakija liqueur, and prolific wildlife, from white tailed eagles to brown bears, about forty of which populate Tara National Park. Most small group tours to Serbia include a day or two in the hills.

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Things not to do in Serbia…

Mention the war. Unless it is brought up by a local person. And don’t call it a civil war. They were profound and devastating ethnic conflicts, and tensions still remain, especially over Kosovo. It also doesn’t go down well calling it a Balkan country, or former Yugoslavia. Being called Eastern Europe won’t get you points or prizes either. Best bet – just call it Serbia.
Drink too much Rakija, made from plums, pears or apricots, which is on offer everywhere. The homebrewed version can be over 50 percent alcohol. Serbians love to offer gifts to guests. Having some gifts ready to give back in exchange, if you are visiting a homestay, for example, will get you a lot of brownie points. If you bring flowers, make sure there are an odd number. Even numbers are for funerals only.
And if you thought Kosovo was a delicate subject - don’t even think about criticising Novak Djokovic.
Written by Catherine Mack
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