Syria travel guide

Syria is resilient. Home of one of the oldest civilisations in the world, it continues to be spectacular, even in the face of the civil war that started in 2011, and in the aftermath of 2022’s devastating earthquake. The country is renowned for the hospitality of its people, the beauty of its cities, the pleasures of Levantine cuisine, and the wealth of its hundreds of archaeological sites – to which more discoveries are added all the time.
Syria’s story has many volumes – fitting for a country with one of the world’s oldest libraries. There have been some dark chapters in recent years, but the country is ready to turn the page.
Its history looms large – to the north are enormous crusader castles, whilst, in its desert oasis, Palmyra, a city made rich by the Silk Road, still stands as a symbol of the country’s endurance. Here’s another: The Norias of Hama – a series of 17 medieval waterwheels, some over 17 metres tall, which lift water out of the Orontes River. It was on Syria’s rich plains that civilisations first started to farm. Modern droughts threaten to take that all away again: the fate of the nation keeps turning, but the country stands strong.

Syria is…

a country where every city has its own specialty dessert.

Syria isn’t…

destroyed by civil war.

Things to do in Syria…

You must travel with a local guide, but it’s no hardship. This is a fantastic way to get to know the country. Visit Syrians at home for dinner as part of your tour, with your guide brokering your new friendship. You’ll probably get roped into chopping the ingredients for tabbouleh, and by the meal itself you’ll all be sharing stories. Put pomegranate molasses on everything. This dark, sweet condiment is a staple on the tables of restaurants and at home, alongside olive oil. There’s no better representation of Syria’s rich cuisine than a dark thread of molasses looped over a shawarma. Speak with people, and you’ll hear about Syrian experiences in their own words – a privilege when the rest of the world is hearing it from news outlets. You’ll meet local wine producers, speak to monks who live in mountain monasteries. And you might pick up a few words of Arabic, Armenian – or even Aramaic. Syria is a country with a Muslim majority which has long had a reputation for religious tolerance. The Valley of the Christians (Wadi al-Nasara) is home to many Greek Orthodox Christians, whilst Damascus has a large Christian population. You should consider visiting at Christmas – winter festivities have been celebrated again in the capital after a period of enforced hiatus. The whole city celebrates, there are trees, lights, a fair and parade, and lots of Santa hats.

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Things not  to do in Syria…

It can be expensive, and difficult, to fly direct to Syria as there aren’t many countries that offer the route. It’s much easier to enter via Beirut, Lebanon or Amman, Jordan. The drive from Beirut to Damascus takes three to four hours, including the border crossing. You’ll be met by your driver in Beirut, and then meet your guide at the Syria border. The road to Damascus down from the Anti Lebanon mountains onto the Syrian plain – shrouded in cloud, or in brilliant sun – will be very memorable. It would be wrong to ignore Syria’s recent history. The civil war saw the life expectancy of its people drop to the age of 55, killed 350,000, and displaced half the population. In Aleppo, two million people left between 2012 and 2016; 25,000 died. All the city’s major monuments were damaged, alongside large areas of the cities of Bosra, Homs and Daraa. Archaeological antiquities were lost – only to resurface on the black market. As the country rebuilds, it’s the stories of the resilience of its people – who endured years of shortages, siege warfare, shelling, and snipers – that resonate. That being said, travellers shouldn’t avoid Syria. By travelling with a knowledgeable operator you can see this wonderful country safely and respectfully.

Understanding Syria’s geography

Syria’s diversity of sites is no accident. Rami Nawaya from our specialist local partner, Syrian Guides, explains, “Syria is such a strategic place – it’s between three main continents and located on the Mediterranean Sea – you could even think of Syria as China’s harbour on the Mediterranean… but Syria is an open field – it’s not protected naturally from north, east, south, west, it’s open and that’s why it’s very challenging to control.”

Because of this, the country has been occupied by many of the big-name empires in world history: the Greek, Roman and Byzantine empires were followed by Arabic rule in the Middle Ages – though sections of the country were held by European crusaders until Mamluk role. The Ottomans invaded in the 16th century and their presence was felt until World War I.

“Various ethnic and religious groups took shelter in Syria over its history, enriching the country. It’s why we have a very colourful society,” says Rami.
Written by Eloise Barker
Photo credits: [Page banner: Aladdin Hammami] [Is/Isn't: Rami Nawaya / Syrian Guides] [Things to do: Rami Nawaya / Syrian Guides]