United Arab Emirates travel guide

It may boast the tallest building in the world, but the amazing thing about the United Arab Emirates is that, within living memory, there was little here beyond small fishing harbours strung along the coast, and vast, empty desert behind them. But while the discovery of oil put the rocket boosters under the emirates’ economy, the country’s leaders are aware that it won’t last forever, and that the fossil fuel era is almost up. That’s why they’re building all those hotels.
The mega-luxury and unbridled capitalism of Dubai and Abu Dhabi need little introduction, but there’s much more to these seven unique emirates than that.
Holidays to the United Arab Emirates shouldn’t be about flaunting designer shopping bags and zipping to the top of the Burj Khalifa. The emirates share an enthralling cultural heritage, as well as many superb wildlife reserves and plenty of activities that benefit both the environment and local communities here.

Find out more in our guide to responsible United Arab Emirates holidays.

The United Arab Emirates is…

not just Dubai and Abu Dhabi, but seven distinct states each with their own unique character and cultural heritage.

The United Arab Emirates isn’t…

somewhere to visit in summer, or if you’d rather not have to adhere to strict religious customs.

Things to do in the United Arab Emirates…

Many travellers choose to combine the UAE with Oman. It’s a little over an hour by air from Dubai to Muscat, capital of the sultanate (though we’d recommend going by road if you can, which takes about seven hours). Once there, you can explore the many similarities and sometimes startling contrasts in culture between the two countries, as well as enjoying some traditional Oman activities, from visiting a Bedouin family home to relaxing by a water-filled wadi. Perhaps surprisingly, desert landscapes can be hubs of biodiversity. Wildlife can thrive in arid environments like that of the UAE, it just needs to be clever about it. You can go birdwatching in Al Zorah Nature Reserve, a wetland wonder just outside Ajman where you can see herons, pink flamingos and many other species. The Wasit Nature Reserve in Sharjah is another superb spot for both resident and migratory bird species – the salt flat and coastal sand dune ecosystem is a triumph of environmental restoration – as recently as 2005 it was a waste water and rubbish dump. Dhows are traditional wooden sailing vessels used by traders, fishermen and pearl divers around the Persian Gulf, the Indian Ocean and the Red Sea for centuries. While the sight of their sails billowing in the wind is not so common nowadays, you can still enjoy a dhow cruise in many parts of the UAE. For an interesting take on their history and cultural significance, you can also visit a dhow boat-building yard and watch craftspeople at work. Such visits, and tourist cruises, help this venerable custom survive in the face of motorised competition.

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Things not  to do in United Arab Emirates…

Despite ranking among the most water-starved countries in the world (less than 100mm average rainfall annually), the UAE also has one of the highest per capita water consumption rates in the world, 50 percent above the global average – and much of that is used by the tourism industry – swimming pools, bathing, watering gardens, laundry. So, don’t sing in the shower – at least, not Bohemian Rhapsody. Avoid hotels with several swimming pools or vast landscaped gardens, as well as water parks and indoor ski resorts that feel bizarrely incongruous in a desert country. Ignore the local customs. Compared to many other parts of the Middle East, the United Arab Emirates can seem relatively liberal, especially Dubai and Abu Dhabi, where you can drink alcohol in some hotels and restaurants, and the culture is quite cosmopolitan. But public displays of affection are generally frowned upon, you should dress modestly, and remember that it’s considered rude to point at anyone. Above all same-sex couples should be discreet. Same-sex sexual activity is punishable by the death penalty under Sharia law, and people can be prosecuted under public decency laws just for holding hands. Limit yourself to Dubai or Abu Dhabi. They may be the best-known cities, but they’re definitely not representative of the UAE as a whole. Spend a day or so in Sharjah, or Al Ain, to explore more traditional Arabic culture. And if browsing for designer clothes in frosty-fresh shopping centres isn’t your thing, you can get your kicks out in the desert, hiking, zip lines and camping among the sand dunes.
Written by Rob Perkins
Photo credits: [Page banner: Lulian Lambermon] [Is/Isn't: Saj Shafique] [Things to do: Nepenthes]