Papua New Guinea

‘Adventurous’, ‘pioneering’ and ‘expedition’ are words that are frequently used when describing travel to Papua New Guinea. If this Pacific nation is tricky to get to, it is even harder to penetrate; steep mountains, dense vegetation and sparring tribes – many uncontacted – have ensured that much of its territory remains largely unexplored by outsiders. But as our Papua New Guinea travel guide reveals, the rewards for those who do make it here are simply phenomenal. PNG is a kind of lost world, with some 780 bird species (including 76 endemic), far-flung tropical islands and thriving coral reefs presenting a paradise for nature lovers. Culture fans, too, will be in their element; PNG’s 850 languages make it the most linguistically diverse country on the planet, and hikes with spirit guides, fire dances, mask festivals, ‘Mudmen’ villages and tasty meals cooked in the earth are wonderful ways to discover its rich traditions. More active travellers can take on the Kokoda Track: the greatest long distance hike you’ve never heard of.
PNG’s Highlands were once assumed to be uninhabited, but were subsequently found to be home to over a million people. This is a territory that keeps even its biggest secrets well hidden.

Papua New Guinea is...

home to 34 species of birds of paradise, almost all of which are endemic to its forests and mangroves.

Papua New Guinea isn’t...

an island. It comprises half of the island of New Guinea – shared with Indonesia – as well as dozens of smaller islands

What to do in Papua New Guinea...

Due to Papua New Guinea’s isolation, both its culture and nature have been allowed to flourish, undisturbed, for millennia, and as a result both are utterly remarkable. When it comes to biodiversity, even non twitchers will quiver at the sight of a bird of paradise; 34 species are unique to PNG and their incredible plumage turns them into rainbow coloured shape shifters during mating displays. No wonder they are one of Sir David Attenborough’s most enduring passions. Some 850 languages are spoken in PNG, making it the world’s most linguistically diverse country. There are believed to be around 44 uncontacted tribes, but happily for visitors there are plenty of communities that do welcome guests. Each village has its own cultural highlights: Asaro’s ‘Mudmen’, hypnotic masked dances, ‘mumu’ dishes cooked in the ground, fire lighting ceremonies, ghost dances, ceremonial headdresses... Crafts include elaborate woodcarvings, traditional weapons and musical instruments, and bilum string bags. Sign up for a night’s homestay to go that bit further into PNG village life. PNG’s forests, shores and islands are scattered with reminders of the WW2 battles that were fought here between Japanese and Allied – mostly Australian – troops. The Kokoda Track follows the sites of some of the most significant clashes, but if you don’t fancy the epic trek, you can visit the U-boat tunnels and see evidence of historic battles and the Japanese occupation on Nissan Island and New Ireland.

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What not to do in Papua New Guinea...

Assume the Kokoda Track is a walk in the park. This 100km historical trail takes eight or nine days to complete, which may not sound like too much of a challenge. However, the terrain and climate tell a different story. You’ll need to be pretty fit to take this on; some trekking companies can arrange pre-departure workouts to get your fitness levels up. Protective clothing, bug repellent, sunscreen, blister treatment and a lot of water are essential, as is a positive mental attitude; the extraordinary views, super remote jungle and refreshing dips in natural pools should help keep spirits boosted – as will the sense of incredible achievement. Stay on dry land. Sea kayaking, scuba diving, snorkelling and small ship cruises are magical ways to explore the coral rich seas around Papua New Guinea, which are some of the clearest, warmest and most biodiverse on earth. Inland, take a Zodiac ride up Sepik River to encounter jungle wildlife and tiny villages scattered along its shores. Head off alone. In 2017, explorer Benedict Allen made headlines for trekking into the Papua New Guinea wilderness in search of a tribe he’d met decades before. He got lost, and he got sick. To be fair, he’d decided to travel without the aid of modern technology, but even if he hadn’t, this is tough terrain with a brutal tropical climate and the odd tribal skirmish; a SatNav can only get you so far...
Written by Vicki Brown
Photo credits: [Page banner: Ethan Daniels] [What to do: Anselmo Lastra]