Wildebeest Migration in Kenya

The wildebeest migration, also known as the Great Migration, rather than a there-and-back route, is a clockwise circling of the vast Serengeti-Mara ecosystem, following the rains. The wildebeest are resident in the southern Serengeti for a few months from December, when grass is plentiful. Once they have had their calves (January to March) and the grasslands begin to dry out, the wildebeest start to move, but only the rains decide when the push north to Kenya and the Masai Mara begins. The migration helps to replenish the grasslands, and, of course, it also provides sustenance to a range of predators.

Because far from being some relaxed amble between grasslands, the wildebeest migration is loaded with risk. Lions and leopards tail the herds, waiting to pick off the weak and vulnerable, and when they reach the Mara River, the peril ratchets up further. Here, huge Nile crocodiles lurk in the waters, waiting for their chance of a meal. These tense scenes at the river, as wildebeest plunge down the steep, muddy banks and thunder through the treacherous waters, draw thousands of spectators.

“The anticipation of waiting to see whether the wildebeest will cross the river is a big part of it,” says Alice. “You really feel on the edge of your seat as you watch them make their way down to the river where they decide whether to cross or not. You’re desperately wanting them to make it across the river okay, but very much aware of the crocodiles waiting in the water. It's intense to witness!”

At just 1,500km2 the Masai Mara is a tenth the size of the Serengeti. It can take as little as an hour to fly to the reserve from Nairobi, or around seven hours to drive. That makes it much more accessible, and so ideal for families, or anyone pushed for time.

And though it’s much smaller than the Serengeti, the Masai Mara is just as rich in wildlife, and it’s a more condensed area, making sightings more likely. As well as spending a morning at the Mara River, Alice took no fewer than five half-day game drives during her time in the reserve, seeing a lion with its kill and a leopard with her baby, hippos in the river, huge herds of elephants, troops of baboons, giraffes and hyenas. Most of our wildebeest migration tours encompass a wider safari, rather than focusing entirely on the wildebeest. “Kenya is so incredible that even if you’re not lucky enough to see the river crossing there’s still so much wildlife to see,” says Alice, “and learning about the Masai people and their history and culture is so fascinating too.”

If you come for the wildebeest migration in Kenya, you can easily continue further afield afterwards. Alice headed to beautiful Diani Beach on the Kenyan coast, a three-hour flight. You can also combine your safari with gorilla watching in Rwanda and Uganda, wash the dust off with a few days in Zanzibar, or get a fuller picture of the migration route by combining Kenya with Tanzania.

However, the main reason to see the wildebeest migration in Kenya is because this is where you get the Mara River crossing, which can result in some iconic scenes, as Alice was fortunate enough to catch. “After watching the wildebeest migration on one of David Attenborough's programmes when I was little, it has always been a dream of mine to witness. Before I went, I appreciated nothing is ever guaranteed in terms of wildlife viewing, but of course I hoped I'd get lucky! And having a great Masai guide with us throughout proved invaluable.”

“Seeing the vast herds along the riverbanks was breathtaking but seeing them running over the crest of the hill made me quite emotional. It’s one of the most incredible things I’ve ever seen.”

The wildebeest don’t cross the river all in one go. They mill around the riverbanks for days, plucking up the courage to attempt a crossing. One or two of the braver will step down to the river to suss out the situation, and then quickly scurry back up away from the crocodiles. Eventually, though, a few wildebeest will take the leap of faith, and a trickle quickly becomes a torrent.

“The anticipation of waiting is all part of it. You really feel on the edge of your seat as you watch them make their way down to the river where they decide whether to cross or not,” says Alice. “Then when it starts it happens so quickly. One would be brave then maybe a group of 10 would go. You see the crocodiles waiting for them, their little eyes. You could see clearly without binoculars. It went on for maybe half an hour. They come over the ridge, thousands of them. We saw only about two wildebeest get caught. Eventually they realised it wasn’t safe and they paused.” Jeeps park up at safe, elevated vantage points that command good views of the river. There will be plenty of other people in the vicinity watching, but with your attention focused on the banks, you’ll barely notice. “Even though we could hear other people around us it was still very quiet and relaxed,” says Alice, “as if we were the only ones experiencing it.”

An experience like this can overwhelm the senses, as Alice found. “The feeling of being amongst the wildebeest is unforgettable. There's a frantic energy to it that you get so caught up in. I thought there would be more noise, but I don't know if I missed that because I was so focused on what I was seeing. You’re desperately wanting them to make it across the river ok, but very much aware and can see the crocodiles waiting in the water for their chance. It's rough at times, intense to witness!”

Given the sheer number of animals on the move, it’s possible to see different herds crossing the river in different directions on the same day. At one point Alice’s jeep moved to change angle, and they found themselves surrounded by wildebeest that had just made a successful crossing. “We were in a spot which meant the wildebeest rested next to our vehicle once they'd made it back on land. Being still in the moment with them knowing the efforts they'd been though to get there was very special.”

This is not a route march, it’s a process of moving and feeding, moving and feeding, shifting towards pastures new where the grass really is greener, without following a single path. An organised safari with a driver and experienced guide will take you overland to find the herds, as they cross the river and move into the Masai Mara. You can also look out for them crossing the Grumeti River. This is shallower than the Mara, so slightly less of an obstacle for the migrating herds, but it still serves up the sight of huge crocs snapping at hooves as wildebeest pile through.

Exploring a couple of locations is the most reliable way to see the migration. Staying just outside the Masai Mara reserve in one of Kenya’s excellent conservancies is a good way to avoid the crowds who come to see the Mara River crossing. You might have a fairly long drive in to watch the action, but conservancies – where groups of indigenous landowners come together to manage their land collectively, often leasing some of it to safari companies – are a way for tourism, wildlife conservation and traditional agriculture to coexist with minimal friction. They can also create many employment opportunities for local people, not only for guides and lodge workers, but all the way up to senior leadership.

Alice spent three nights with our partners Saruni Base Camp at their Masai Mara conservancy, prompted by Responsible Travel founder Justin Francis’ many stories about it. “It’s such a special place that has always been on my radar,” says Alice. “The camp is about an hour’s drive from the Mara River, so you get there right after breakfast. It doesn’t feel like a transfer though, more a game drive – you’re on safari as soon as you leave the camp.”